Saturday, October 4, 2014

In Progress: B6104 (Inspired by Gucci)

Last month McCall Pattern Company was sponsoring a Pinterest contest for Fall/Winter sewing inspiration.  As I was combing the boards for ideas and filling up my own inspiration board, I stumbled across the Gucci Fall/Winter 2014 collection and fell in love...

This coat just took my breath away. The silhouette, high collar, and row of buttons... I was instantly obsessed. It's such a stylish feminine coat... and exactly what I needed for fall. I have a long winter coat, but I really need something of a medium weight and length.

Butterick 6104 grabbed by attention, as it has a similar collar and opening.  The addition of the patch pockets wouldn't be an issue, but how closely did I really want to match the Gucci coat? I love the single row of button extending up, but... wasn't so sure about buttoning all the way to my shoulder. I love the high collar (looks so regal!), but did I want it to fit that closely?

I decided to leave the coat with the Butterick collar and front edge opening, but add the single row of buttons, patch pockets and 1" of length to the top bodice pieces (I always need a little extra length in the waist on the "big 4"). I'm not thrilled about losing the "useful" pockets hidden in the seam, though. Patch pockets aren't very useful, in my opinion, and I know I'll want at least one useful pocket for my keys. Hmm...

Fabric: 2 1/2 yards from The Wool House (Toronto). Oh my goodness, the fine wool fabrics they brought to the Sewing Expo in Novi!!! The owner found me petting a bolt of camel wool, complimented me on my taste and explained that it was $85/yd.  Would I like some? Oh my... too big for my budget! Even after he adjusted the price (since there was only 15 minutes left before the show floor closed for the night), I still couldn't pull the trigger. But, he had this lovely rose/mauve wool at $35/yd, and still discounted it further, so I splurged and bought it.

Buttons: Soutache (Chicago). Maili (the owner) had a small booth just across from The Wool House, and had just what I needed when I showed her the picture of the Gucci coat. It was narrowed down to 2, but the varying metallic tone on this looked so "warm" with the color of the wool... and the emblem on them is very "smart", so it was a sale. Another splurge, at $4/button, but I'm working from a Gucci perspective, so what do you expect?!

When you consider that this dress (similar, but no sleeves) is $1950, then I was able to purchase "my version" at a 95% discount! ;) Look honey, I saved you $1800!!! Geez, when you put it that way... maybe that camel fabric was a deal!

The buttons are only pinned on. They make me happy.
So, here is where I stand... I followed the pattern instructions and used fusible interfacing on just the front bodice piece and the collar. The wool has a lovely drape and I want to keep it a "mid-weight" coat. It went together very quickly and I'm loving the length.

I need to decide on the lining, though. I've got beige silk charmeuse that I bought from Ressy's co-op years ago. I'm wondering if I shouldn't go for a better match, though.  The pattern doesn't include self fabric facings for the lining, so I'm afraid that the beige will peek out from the button placket. I do have about 3/8 yd left, so I could make my own facings, couldn't I? Hmm....

I also picked up this buckle at the Expo from Vogue Fabrics (50 cents!). It's the right color and shape, but I've never made a buckled belt before! Embroider the holes? Use eyelets? I'm afraid they'll fall out. Maybe I should just buy a slide buckle? This part of the process will require more research...

Thursday, October 2, 2014

Finale: Vogue 8946

"Mrs. B, I like your dress! Did you make it???" 

Here's the final look... I think I spoke too soon in saying, "Go ahead, use a woven... it'll be fine!"
You can see the drag lines across my shoulder... I think I'll remove the sleeves, and see if that helps. I can always put a jacket or sweater over it when the cooler weather arrives.
The inspiration garment.
You can see that there also pull lines in the back, too.  Nothing terrible, but enough for me to know... "The fabric recommendations are on the envelope for a reason!" Here's my previous post.

Other than that, I really like the pattern and am still happy with this version. I have some black ponte (with copper threads) that will make a wonderful holiday LBD, so I'll definitely be pulling this pattern out again.

It's 6:15am... A real smile is a challenge!