Silk Border Print Dress

Burda, June 2010, #106/107
At first glance, I really didn't think very highly of this pattern.  But, when the Vogue I was planning on using ended up being too big, the line drawing on this dress is what sold me.  The two patterns have many similarities (deep v-neck, gathered knee-length skirt, short sleeves), and this pattern allowed me to use the border print the way I wanted to.

Fabric:  100% Silk Habotai from Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak.  I purchased it in the spring and it was on sale!  The pattern calls for roughly 3 yards, and even though I laid the pattern on the cross-grain to use the border at the hem, I still used about the same amount.

Alterations:  There was just one review on PR for this pattern, and the reviewer said it ran big (pattern includes sizes 36 - 44).  I noticed the back view of the pattern included tie backs, which sometimes indicates a looser fit.  I checked the waistband measurements (front only) and the back waist measurement, and decided to cut a 40 for a closer fit.  Close fit indeed!  While I made no other fitting alterations, I did make a few design adjustments.  I placed the skirt hem and the waistband on the fabric border, and also omitted the back ties.  I shortened the sleeves quite a bit, placing the piping at the uppermost "placement line" on the pattern for the ribbons on view #106.

Necessary Notions:  Invisible zipper... a pretty short one, since it only goes from the armpit to just past the waistband.  Bias tape... no facings, no linings, so you need the bias tape to finish the neckline edge.   Twill tape... This notion is a must any time you have a deep v-neck, since it prevents the gapping caused by cutting the neckline along the bias.  I usually use the selvedge of the fabric, but this selvedge was a little weird (stretchy?), so I used the 1/4" twill tape instead.  Piping... not necessary, but I used it to edge the neckline and the sleeve hems.  The Vogue called for it, so I purchased it, and am really glad I had it to use.  However, if I had to do over again, I would've made my own out of a coordinating silk.

Skill Level:  Intermediate.  I made this project three times harder by using piping and the placement of the fabric border, but even without those changes, the waistband point (I could not achieve a true "point") and the neckline bias would be a little challenging for a beginner.  Oh, and the side zip between the sleeve and the skirt hem?  Not as hard as I thought!  Below you can see how I used my serger to finish the seam edges prior to gathering.  The silk kept a wonderful edge and did very little fraying.

Below is the inside of the sleeve hem.  I placed the piping about 2" above the raw edge, then folded the fabric over the piping to close the seam.  (The 2 pics below more closely capture the true color of the fabric, a burgundy, rather than a pink.  That's what I get for shooting in the early morning sunshine!)

Then, when the seam is pressed upward, you can see the piping.  I removed the cording from the sleeve sections of piping to get the hem to lay flatter, otherwise it was causing it to stand away from my arm.

Warnings: The skirt (and gathers) attach about 3" above the natural waist, so if you don't like extra volume there, watch out.  It's very light gathering though (not full at all), just be forwarned.  And if you're bigger than a C-cup, you might want to make a muslin or do a FBA.  The "V" goes all the way to the waistband, so plan on adding a modesty panel, or wearing a cami. (Below is the inside view of the neckline with piping and bias tape to finish the seam.)

Future Plans:  Other than entering this beauty in the Pattern Review Natural Fibers Contest, I have none.  If I were to make it again, I would make the waistband wider so the gathers sit at my waistline, not above it.  I'm hoping to squeeze some extra use out of it when the weather turns, and wear a long sleeve top underneath it, with tights, and my brown leather boots.  For now, I'll use my strappy wedges and enjoy what's left of summer! (Picks of me wearing it coming this weekend!)