Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Silk Border Print Dress

Burda, June 2010, #106/107
At first glance, I really didn't think very highly of this pattern.  But, when the Vogue I was planning on using ended up being too big, the line drawing on this dress is what sold me.  The two patterns have many similarities (deep v-neck, gathered knee-length skirt, short sleeves), and this pattern allowed me to use the border print the way I wanted to.
Fabric:  100% Silk Habotai from Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak.  I purchased it in the spring and it was on sale!  The pattern calls for roughly 3 yards, and even though I laid the pattern on the cross-grain to use the border at the hem, I still used about the same amount.
Alterations:  There was just one review on PR for this pattern, and the reviewer said it ran big (pattern includes sizes 36 - 44).  I noticed the back view of the pattern included tie backs, which sometimes indicates a looser fit.  I checked the waistband measurements (front only) and the back waist measurement, and decided to cut a 40 for a closer fit.  Close fit indeed!  While I made no other fitting alterations, I did make a few design adjustments.  I placed the skirt hem and the waistband on the fabric border, and also omitted the back ties.  I shortened the sleeves quite a bit, placing the piping at the uppermost "placement line" on the pattern for the ribbons on view #106.
Necessary NotionsInvisible zipper... a pretty short one, since it only goes from the armpit to just past the waistband.  Bias tape... no facings, no linings, so you need the bias tape to finish the neckline edge.   Twill tape... This notion is a must any time you have a deep v-neck, since it prevents the gapping caused by cutting the neckline along the bias.  I usually use the selvedge of the fabric, but this selvedge was a little weird (stretchy?), so I used the 1/4" twill tape instead.  Piping... not necessary, but I used it to edge the neckline and the sleeve hems.  The Vogue called for it, so I purchased it, and am really glad I had it to use.  However, if I had to do over again, I would've made my own out of a coordinating silk.
Skill Level:  Intermediate.  I made this project three times harder by using piping and the placement of the fabric border, but even without those changes, the waistband point (I could not achieve a true "point") and the neckline bias would be a little challenging for a beginner.  Oh, and the side zip between the sleeve and the skirt hem?  Not as hard as I thought!  Below you can see how I used my serger to finish the seam edges prior to gathering.  The silk kept a wonderful edge and did very little fraying.
Below is the inside of the sleeve hem.  I placed the piping about 2" above the raw edge, then folded the fabric over the piping to close the seam.  (The 2 pics below more closely capture the true color of the fabric, a burgundy, rather than a pink.  That's what I get for shooting in the early morning sunshine!)
Then, when the seam is pressed upward, you can see the piping.  I removed the cording from the sleeve sections of piping to get the hem to lay flatter, otherwise it was causing it to stand away from my arm.
Warnings: The skirt (and gathers) attach about 3" above the natural waist, so if you don't like extra volume there, watch out.  It's very light gathering though (not full at all), just be forwarned.  And if you're bigger than a C-cup, you might want to make a muslin or do a FBA.  The "V" goes all the way to the waistband, so plan on adding a modesty panel, or wearing a cami. (Below is the inside view of the neckline with piping and bias tape to finish the seam.)
Future Plans:  Other than entering this beauty in the Pattern Review Natural Fibers Contest, I have none.  If I were to make it again, I would make the waistband wider so the gathers sit at my waistline, not above it.  I'm hoping to squeeze some extra use out of it when the weather turns, and wear a long sleeve top underneath it, with tights, and my brown leather boots.  For now, I'll use my strappy wedges and enjoy what's left of summer! (Picks of me wearing it coming this weekend!)

25 comments:

JoanneM said...

Gorgeous dress and fabric. A winner!!!!!!

KID, MD said...

It's beautiful! Wonderful work!

Jenny said...

Very pretty! Love the fabric!

Shari said...

Beautiful work! Very pretty dress.

Bunny said...

This looks really great, Kristine. The finish on the neckline is beautiful. Details on how you finished the neckline?

Sewfast said...

Lovely dress and great use of a border print! You done good!!!

Kristine said...

Neckline: After stitching front to back at the shoulders by applying 1/4" twill tape to the wront side of the neckline edge to stabilize and prevent gaping. I then applied the piping to the right side of the front edge, with raw edges even. Next, I attached the bias tape, with the fold line matching the stitching. Then, I folded the bias along the center of the tape, concealing all raw edges, and stitching it closed along the seam allowance, with no stitching showing on the right side of the dress neckline. The final seam allowance on the inside was approx. 3/8". I hope that helps.

Patty said...

Cute!

judidarling said...

Excuse me while I wipe the drool from my keyboard. What a lovely dress. The pattern is understated and elegant, and the fabric is gorgeous! When will we see pics of you wearing it? Soon, I hope.

Angela said...

Oh my... it's stunning! Great job!

Jana said...

Love! I haven't seen a dress or garment in this color-scheme that I've actually liked... yours is awesome! Supercute! I bet you look fabulous in it, too

Rose said...

Fabulous dress! I look forward to the pictures of you wearing it.

Elaray said...

Your dress is beautiful.
I had that same fabric and I loved sewing with it! I used it for a blouse. That's why I love sewing and find it so fascinating. The same fabric can produce two entirely different looks.

gwensews said...

That's a beautiful dress. Love the color. There's plenty of warm weather left to wear it.

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

This dress's color is just lovely. It'll be a nice end of summer dress. It's wonderful!

Capitol Sew and Sew said...

L-O-V-E-L-Y!

Christiana said...

Absolutely stunning!

Christiana
sewamusing.blogspot.com

Dana said...

Fantastic dress! Great use of that border print!

BeeBee said...

That turned out really nice. I liked that pattern the better of the two, anyway. And I think you used the border print very nicely. Enjoy and good luck with the contest.

Gail said...

You've done a great job. Especially like the piped neckline and the border print.

Summerset said...

Just gorgeous - I think you'll get a lot of use out of this one. The color and style will be good for transitioning to fall.

AuntieAllyn said...

Love it!

Michelle said...

OMG, I love this!!! The fabric is FANTASTIC!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is beautiful! I love how you used the border print and the piping...what a great example of borderprintedness!

Lindsay T said...

That is so pretty! I love it! Where are the photos of you wearing it? You skinny thing you.