Shirt - McCall's 5630 (Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Fit Blouse)
I've had McCall's 5630 in my pattern stash for a long time (it's OOP now), along with some fabulous white cotton Ralph Lauren shirting (from Ressy's co-op). My favorite button-down blouse in my closet is from Victoria's Secret, with front vertical darts and side seam darts, back vertical darts and shoulder darts, with french cuffs. I was happy to change the french cuffs out, but really wanted a great fit through the bodice. This is the only pattern I own (including 3 years of Burda subscriptions) with 3 of the 4 darts included.
I took my time with the collar and stand, using my wooden tailor's clapper to press the seams open carefully and trim closely. My hand-stitching was impeccable along the collar stand, front button placket, and cuffs (Susan Khalje would be proud)... and I was thinking, "Damn, I'm good!". Then it happened. The bump in the road. Can you tell what it is before I say it out loud?
Too much ease in the sleeve cap. No matter how I tried to gather it, ease it, pin it... I got puckers. I ripped, I re-stitched. Still puckers. Yuck! I navigated through the worst part of a tailored, fitted shirt... and got stuck with stupid sleeve seam puckers??? Seriously? In all honesty, the only person who will notice will be my husband, because I pointed them out to him. So, whenever I wear this shirt I know that he will say, "Wow, you look great! Too bad you messed up the sleeves..." And I will laugh, because it's a reminder that I am my own worst critic, and the blouse is 98% "Amazing" and 2% "Oops". I should've known better, as the last 2 reviews on PR warned of that problem, but I didn't take the time to measure and check. Oh well, live and learn! I will fine-tune the pattern and remove some ease, so the next version will be perfect. Actually, I haven't serged those seams yet, so I may still remove those sleeves, and fix this version!
What I did take the time to do, was to tissue fit the pattern on Bo. Something I've never been able to do before, but now I can! It was so awesome being able to pin it together, slip it on her, and check the fit without doing a muslin. I have to re-train my brain that this is now an option with all my patterns...
Pants - Simplicity 4135
This is my 3rd version of the Simplicity Threads pattern 4135. I consider this my TNT pants pattern, and this tiime I used some really nice "Easy Care Wool Blend" in charcoal from Gorgeous Fabrics. Such a great fabric... it's pressed beautifully and is a really lovely suiting weight. Great for winter, but will transition into spring, too. I used a black cotton broadcloth from the scrap box for the pockets and waistband facing. The only change this time around was the narrowing of the pantleg. When I wear these for real, I'll take a pic so you can see that it was definitely a change for the better! Sadly, Little Man accidentally head-butted me today during a wrestling session, and my right eye is all swollen, so you'll just have to deal with pics of Bo modeling for now! If you've never made pants with a pocket bag that extends to the center front, then you're really missing out on a no-gaping pocket situation!
This won't be last you hear from me on either of these patterns! They are true "wardrobe staples" and with many beautiful cotton shirtings in the stash and another length of "Easy Care Wool Blend" on it's way to me from Boston (yes, I caved during the 1 day sale), I will hopefully continue to improve my skills on them, too!