Sunday, January 4, 2009

I need a fitting class...

Here is top #119 from the October 2008 BWOF (line drawing here). The magazine version is shown below.
I'm happy with it, but am frustrated (unsure?) of the fit. The waist and bottom are perfect, but I *hate* the extra space in my armpit area. I keep forgetting that I should be doing a FBA (maybe subconsiously avoiding the extra work), but wouldn't that make it even bigger in this bust? Here is what I suspect... I should've traced a 40 or 42 and done a FBA. I think the shoulders will fit better then, and I'd have less gaping in the neck. But, according to my measurements, this makes absolutely no sense! All I know is that the magazine version has a tighter fit in the neck and waist.

I'm such an idiot... I got so excited about sewing something for myself that I kept forging ahead, forgetting to interface the facings. Not a huge deal, but it might've helped with the gaping. Sometimes I think I have ADHD when I'm sewing, because I let the excitement (devil on one shoulder) beat the proper technique (angel on the other shoulder) too often.

Anyhow, I'm happy with it. Will definitely be wearing it to work (with a cami underneath) and love the fabric. Funny how similar it is to the magazine version! There was no fraying (because of the lycra?) and the stretch allowed me to remove the zipper and slip it over my head. Another glaring piece of evidence that I need know more about my measurements and choosing the right pattern size! DH has offered to help me make a duct tape double, so I think it's time to find a babysitter and read up on the tutorial that Dawn followed to make her's, which she loves.

Here's the sewing goodies I got for Christmas:
Along with a couple of sweaters, a couple of books (Twilight and The Lucky One), a Bluetooth cell phone speaker for the car, and a very awesome Rabbit Bottle Opener. If you like to drink wine, hate cork floaties, and tend to demolish the cork upon removal, you *need* one of these! I also got the first season of Project Runway on DVD, which I love to watch while I trace and cut patterns in the kitchen.

*Bonus of the week* I won $50 playing Texas Hold'em on New Year's Day, so I'm ordering myself a Point Press/Clapper and a Double Tracing Wheel. 2009 is off to a good start!

11 comments:

Cindy said...

I like the top! I am confused about fitting too---I am going to do a lot of muslins this year!

Alana said...

It does looks big on your shoulders. I think you need a smaller size and a FBA. You are getting the bust room you need from the too large top, and you just aren't large in the shoulders! You can carry the extra FBA room down thorough the waist if you think you need it.

No one but a sewer will notice, though. It looks great.

Miss Linda said...

I am in awe of anyone who attempts Burda patterns. I think the top looks good, the fabric is quite lovely. Fitting is something I'm still working hard on.

Josie said...

Hi Kristine,
I have a slightly full bust compounded by a narow back. If I chose patterns by my bust size I would end up with a top that's too big in the back, armholes and neck but a bit snug across the front. I choose my size by taking the measurement around my back and above my bust (high bust), I then work out how much of an FBA I need by measuring my full bust and adding the difference to my pattern. It's not always easy to work out how to do an FBA on complicated designs though - best to start with something simple.

2BSewing: said...

I like your top. I saw this as a potential future sewing project and wondered if the zipper was really necessary. Thanks for confirming.

Sigrid said...

Lovely top. I have a narrow back and relatively small shoulders, but a large cup size. With BWOF I sometimes try to cut a size smaller in the back an larger in the front, instead of doing a fba. Fit improves with a fba if you have a full bust and do the size measurement as Josie described.

Summerset said...

Very cute top. Sometimes those side or back zippers that BWOF instructs aren't necessary. Josie has great advice - by cutting the harder fit to part, the shoulders in the right size and sizing up the bust area.

angie.a said...

PR's on DVD??!! Woohoo!! I agree with the FBA & a smaller size through the neck/shoulders. I think you'll see a big improvement. On the other hand, I KNOW I need one and I still skip it if at all possible. Lazy. Nothing else. :D (LOVE the fabric, btw.)

OH! And I made a DTD a couple weekends ago by myself. Just the front half, and a bit around my waist/shoulder area. I wore a tee so I could keep the back portion intact, then I slipped it over my dressform. It's been pretty handy to judge fit on my recent tops,but I haven't used it alot to fit a pattern yet.

Cindy Lou said...

Love your blog! I got myself a clapper for Christmas-- LOVE it! My last dress (Burda 01-09) I clapped every seam with my mid-weight sweater knit, and got compliments on how nice the seams looked from my sewing class. It's so great that you're getting one too! My family totally doesn't get it.
BTW... I looked back at your Homecoming dress. It's a masterpiece!
Thanks for the good words on the coat... I'm piecing it now and falling in love as I go. :)

BeeBee said...

I'm a little late to this party, but I made this same top and had the same problem. I cut the smallest size, afraid it would be too small and it just hangs on me. Seriously, 3-4 sizes too large. Love your fabric, though. It's great with the pattern.

Alexandra said...

Check this out to help with fit through the shoulders and arms. I'll be it helps. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4762/fitting-dvd-series-preview

I think the part where it demonstrates fit through the shoulder and arms would solve the issue you mentioned.