Vogue Jacket 8839

I feel silly that it took me so long to see this project come to fruition, when the actual construction time was next to nothing! Leave it to me to turn a simple unlined jacket into a complicated project...

What came first: the pattern or the fabric? The fabric!
I picked up this lovely brocade from Emma One Sock last winter during a roll end sale. I fell in love with the red/black/silver print, but knew that a yard and 2/3 would limit my options. When it arrived and I saw that it was also flocked... it had to become a jacket of some type.


Pattern Description: Vogue 8839

MISSES' JACKET: Loose-fitting jacket has contrast reverse side, front extending into collar, collar/front/sleeve/lower bands, side front seams, welt pockets, darted sleeve cap, no shoulder seams, and topstitching. Bands (collar, sleeve, lower): cut on crosswise grain of fabric.

FABRICS: For Moderate Stretch Knits: Wool Jersey, Sweatshirt Fleece, Double Knit. Hmm... Moderate Stretch Knit? Nope. Going to move forward anyway? Yup! NOTE: There is no hem allowance included. Raw edges. This issue (since my fabric was not a knit, frayed and unraveled) altered my pattern layout (causing said complication). Once I cleared that hurdle, life was good! The pattern also makes use of the wrong side of the fabric as the contrasting bands. The EOS fuzzy brocade didn't have that different of a wrong side, and since I needed more fabric anyway (the pattern calls for 2 1/4 yd for size M), I was on the look out for a coordinating fabric to make up the difference. I got super lucky at the American Sewing Expo in September when Haberman Fabrics had the perfect red/black/silver wool, so I scooped up a yard!

Pattern Sizing: XS - XXL, I made up a Medium, and it's nearly perfect. As usual, the sleeves are about an inch too long, but it's winter and I'm cozy now!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but remember, I chickened out on the welt pockets. Good instructions, though.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKES: Super easy and fast sew! No hemming at all!
DISLIKES: Slightly shapeless. No hemming at all?

Fabric Used: 1 2/3 yards of fuzzy brocade from Emma One Sock, 1 yards of wool tweed from Haberman Fabrics. No closures.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
1. I eliminated the welt pockets. Lazy bones here. I just finished a really complicated project for a client and desperately needed a quick sew. Welt pockets (do not equal) quick sew. While I'm slightly ashamed, I'm don't regret my decision.
2. I did NOT use a stretch fabric. The sleeves do have a more narrow fit, so you may want to double check arm circumference against the pattern if you choose to break the rules, too. One piece (I think the sleeve cuff) did need an additional 1/2" since it had no stretch.
3. I used my serger to finish the edges of the pieces that didn't have a fringy selvedge. I used my serger A LOT, as it's an unlined jacket and the front inside seams flip out as part of the intended design.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and Yes. I would definitely make it again, if I found the right fabrics. With a slightly loose fit, this would also make a great gift for a friend.

Conclusion: I really do love this alternative to a cardigan. Now that I've done it once, I know what to do next time, so this already "easy make" will be even easier! Love, love, love!

Under Construction: Vogue 8946

Don't you just love Pinterest?
When I stumbled across the image of this dress, I had to make one similar.

I love everything about this dress, from the color and the asymmetrical folds to the shape and silhouette. With a couple yards of gray suiting on hand (and the lining and zipper even), I was ready to dive in.

Vogue 8946

The print hides the style lines, which is a shame.

There aren't any finished garment measurements printed on the tissue, so I made my usual size (16). I made no fit adjustments to the pattern, as they usually fit pretty well straight out of the envelope.
I'll admit though, that I didn't notice that the fabric recommendation is for a stretch fabric until I double checked it.  Oops... now what? My suiting has no lycra in it, so... what to do? I went back to the stash closet and dug around for a knit (and found one), but my heart wasn't in it. I wanted the gray Pinterest dress, damn it!!! Hmmm... if I only knew how the sizing ran!? Lightbulb! Check the PatternReview website and see!  Sure enough, people have said that the dress runs just a bit big, so out came the gray suiting again, and I was ready to start! I decided on view C, but the shorter version.

Construction has been pretty uneventful. The pleats and darts were pretty straight forward and not tricky or anything.  There is a separate front lining piece with darts instead of pleats, which is nice as it reduces the bulk created by all the tucks.

 

Invisible zip at center back and 2 darts

The fit is actually pretty awesome, considering I'm not using the recommended stretch fabric.  It's a wee bit snug in the hips, so I'll likely just decrease the side seam allowance 1/4" on both sides and move forward.  I really like it a lot, and although it's not a perfect replica of the Pinterest inspiration, it has the same vibe... a polished (and sexy) business look.

I've worked on it here and there while the embroidery machine was running Sunday (an hour, cutting fabric and pleating the top), and last night it had my undivided attention for about 2 hours (skirt pleats, cutting lining and construction), which ended with getting the zip inserted and the lining closed at center back.  So, I've only got the sleeves and hem left to go!  Super excited, I think this will be a great addition to my wardrobe!

Should I? (aka "Step Away from the Mood Website")

Help! Not sure what to do...

Ever since I pinned this image on Pinterest, it's been repinned repeatedly. I love the neckline and the utter femininity of this look.

I already have a pattern in mind, Vogue 8633.

This fabric is available at Mood, and is "almost sold out".

The angel on my shoulder says, "It's September, what are you going to do with a pink dress?"
The devil says, "You'll sew it up and wear it in the Spring!"
The angel says, "You NEVER wear pink."
The devil says, "But, it's so pretty... you look great in pink!"
The angel says, "You have boxes and boxes of fabric already."
The devil says, "It won't cost you a dime, you still have that big credit on file at Mood!"

WHAT SHOULD I DO???

The Perfect Shade of Yellow

My current project is a beach reception dress for a former student. She and her new husband will be celebrating with family at a local beach, and she didn't want anything particularly formal or traditional. The party is fairly casual, so our design brainstorming session took a lot of back and forth with "How about this?" and "No, more like this..." via numerous Facebook conversations! She fell in love with this dress, but wanted it "fancied" up a little bit. She loved the chevron fabric, but was hoping for a white/cream colorway. Loved the hi/low skirt, but wanted a fitted halter top.

The only white/cream chevron fabric I found was for home dec, so her second pick was a white/pastel yellow chevron. Lots of bright yellow chevron fabric (in cotton) out there, but nothing in a pastel with more drape! Spoonflower to the rescue!!! Chevron: check! Pastel yellow: check! Silky Faille: check! Having never ordered from Spoonflower before, I was a little nervous... but, the fabric arrived faster than expected and is exactly what she wanted!

 

I headed to Haberman's in hopes of finding the perfect shade of yellow for the bodice. I'm marrying 2 Vogue patterns to create her look, 8470 (halter bodice) and 8870 (long hi/low skirt).

One more pattern edit... The top of the skirt pattern needs to be adjusted for a smooth seam, not gathered.  So, anyway, back to the color matching (and the reason for this post!)...

I first found a yellow taffeta, but it was a smidge too dark, too shiny, and too stiff. I carried it along through the store, anyway though. Then I found a cotton/silk voile, but it was a smidge too light and definitely too sheer.  Neither fabric was right, and those were my only options (with no time for swatches from online resources). Hmmm... what to do???

 

A ha! Lightbulb! Layer the fabrics, you silly seamstress! Use the taffeta as an underlining! PERFECT SHADE OF YELLOW!!!

 

So, I've got the bodice constructed, and it's time to edit, cut, construct, and attach the skirt. I'll probably have the finished project done to share with you in the next few days or so!  It's such an honor to be asked to make such a special dress for a special day, especially considering that I've known her since she was a 9th grader in my Student Council class!

 

 

Electric Party Dress

I wouldn't say that this project was a "perfect marriage of fabric and pattern", but I did make it to wear to the wedding and reception of some friends that are the perfect couple! Congrats Sarah and Eric!

The fabric was a "deal of the day" from Mood Fabrics a couple of months ago. It was the color (and the price) that sold me! "Electric Fuschia" is what the tag said, and for half off ($6.99/yd), I picked up 3 yards, not sure what it would become yet. It was exactly the amount needed to make Vogue 8997, and although I was tempted to make the typical black cocktail dress, this fabric just kept asking to become a party dress.

I picked up 3 yards of lining at Joann's and got started Tuesday night. I worked on it an hour here and an hour there during the week, and finished tacking down the lining at 4:30pm Saturday, walking out the door an hour later! Here's the inside of the bodice:

 

 

I don't think it was the perfect fabric for this project, though... I followed the pattern's recommendation to interface all the bodice pieces, but I should've also stabilized the skirt seams (at least at the top, through the waist area), as the puckering was really irritating me. It also wrinkled so easily... I knew that my back side would be a mess from the car ride before we even got there. This fabric is made more for blouses and tops... but, I sure did get lots of compliments on the color!

The pattern is drafted beautifully and the instructions are great. I only strayed twice... once for the cutting layout (they recommend cutting a single layer, but I folded my 3 yards in half (1.5 yd x 45") and fit all my pieces just fine (size 14) with all the pattern pieces following the grain line. I also lowered the center front neckline about 1", as I wanted it to be a little bit sexier. Once I had the dress layer done with zipper, I simply put it on, and pulled out the stitches from top down until I was happy with the neckline.

Please pardon the wrinkles, pics taken after wearing!

The sizing on the pattern paper was accurate, and this pattern offers the "custom fit" multiple cup sizes for the bust. I made the size 14, C cup, and it's spot on. I hemmed it 1.5" and *love* the swishing-whisper sound it makes when I walk! I forewarn you to machine hem this dress, though... 4 yards of hemline by hand will be time consuming!

Back view

I'm certain that I'll be using this pattern again in the near future (with the standard neckline provided), as it is a great dress for just about any occasion. It has classic style, with feminine lines (did you see the flutter sleeve version?) and was really straight-forward to make. In a "beefier" fabric, you could either line just the bodice, or forego the lining all-together and use bias tape to finish the neckline and armholes.  It's winning pattern, you'll see it from me again, I'm sure of it!