The Teacher Dress

My family tells me that this is a great "teacher dress". I think it's a great dress...period! I love the fit and the style, and can see myself getting lots of use out of it, both in and out of school.

Inspiration: Stella McCartney "Ridley Stretch Cady" Dress, $885.


I first saw it worn by the Duchess of Cambridge at the Road to 2012 celebration, and admired the shape of the dress and darts on the outside. The pattern has sleeve options, but for this time I left them off.

Pattern: Butterick 5780


The darts on the skirt immediately reminded me of the McCartney dress, and I was really drawn to the unique shaping of the neckline.



Pattern Description: "MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE DRESS: Fitted dress (close-fitting through bust) has side front bodice extending into back collar, front pleated skirt, stitched hems and back zipper."



Pattern Sizing:6-22. There are NO finished garment measurements on the pattern (usually marked at the bust/waist/hips), so according to my measurements, it should've been pretty close. It was a smudge big, not too bad, though.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly!!!



Were the instructions easy to follow?Butterick gives this pattern an EASY rating, but I disagree. The bodice construction isn't easy and the illustrations provided in the instructions aren't adequate. Go slowly and use the matching points (and logic) where you can, and it WILL be worth the effort! Start to finish (including cutting the pattern), it took me 4 hours to make this dress. Well worth it, in my opinion.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKE: A sheath with style. It will be good in warm weather and (with a jacket) in cooler months. It was a welcome challenge, as my recent projects have been pretty easy.
DISLIKE: The instructions on the bodice assembly were quite lacking. It would've been nice if they had warned you when to finish the bottom edge of the facings (first thing right off the bat, in case you make it up yourself).



Fabric Used:2 yards of black RPL from the stash (Ressy's co-op). No lining, no interfacing. (I skipped the zipper, too. Shhh!)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: When I saw that it was a tiny bit big, I took in the side seams about 1/4" on both sides.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes! I have some navy knit in the stash ready to go, and now that I've figured out the "origami" of the bodice construction, I can do it again, no problem! For others out there, please don't be intimidated by these reviews, just take our time, read the instructions and pin in the obvious places... It is worth the effort and time!

Conclusion: I'm looking forward to making this pattern up again, now that I've figured out the construction of the bodice and love the way it looks!

Vogue 1299

Vogue 1299


Inspired by a photo of Jaime King, wearing the "Ashanti" dress by Joie,$268.
I spotted this in "People Magazine" after finding the fabric on the Mood website, and knew it was the look I was after.


Fabric from Mood:

Rose Floral Double-Sided Poly-Cotton, 56"wide. 2 yards.
(Lining: Beige Anti-static from Joann's, 58" wide, 1.5 yards)



Pattern Description: "Pullover dress has tie/loop, flounces (wrong side may show), loose-fitting bodice, side pockets, thread carriers and very narrow hems. Elasticized upper edge/waist and belt."

Pattern Sizing: 4-20. I made the 12 according to the finished garment measurements on the pattern. I wanted it to slide over my hips easily, but without too much extra fabric to gather at the waist.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part, aside from the change of shoulder straps, RTW belt, and slight change in length.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but since I needed to line it, I strayed from the instructions quite a bit.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I chose it because it allowed me to use both sides of the fabric and strongly resembled the magazine picture I admired.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1. Shortened the hem by 6".
2. Used 2 shoulder straps.
3. Inserted a lining.
*4. I WISH I WOULD'VE LENGTHENED THE BODICE BY 1".


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would recommend it, it's a great sundress and easy enough to make. I don't really want/need another in my closet right now, but I'll tuck it away for the future.

Conclusion: On a scale from 1-10, I'd give it a 7. It's a great sundress, but I'm not crazy about the waist gathers. It's a little short-waisted, but I think it will get lots of wear.

Mad for Madras!

McCall's 5574, view C

I bought this pattern last summer, and bought the fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics this spring. Little Miss just turned 9, and I finally found my sewing mojo, so I made her a sundress. The prom dresses used up all my go-go juice, so yes... I've been MIA. But, this little number was a huge hit, so I'll definitely make another.


I used every last inch of the yard that I had, and used some batiste to line the bodice, along with some ribbon for the neck tie.


A thin band of elastic keeps the back up and I eliminated the waist ties. First, long skinny tubes are a PITA to make. Secondly, they just get in the way. Third, Little Miss always either needs help tying them or they just come undone. So, I skipped 'EM!

I've been busy enjoying my summer vacation, doing lots of camping and swimming and reading. James Patterson (Women's Murder Club) and Janet Evanovich (Stephanie Plum series) are my kind of summer time books. Not exactly life-changing and thought-provoking, but I get enough of that Sept-Jun, you know?

Prom 2012: Audrey and Mila

Two dresses this year! Not sure if I'm in any hurry to attempt that again, I definitely need to improve my time management if I do!


Miss L asked me to make her dress the day after Prom LAST YEAR! "Breakfast at Tiffany's", but in a different color: champagne pink. Amazingly enough, she never changed her mind, so that's what I made.






She also wanted it to have a "flowy" skirt and the matching necklace. Her mom found the brooch at a local antique shop, and I brought the pearls and clasp at the bead store.








The fabric all came from Joann's, since they have multiple fabrics in matching colors. Chiffon, Crepe, and Lining, and when it on sale, it's a bargain. I wish I could get a better quality set of fabrics in matching dye lots, so if you know of a source, please share! The patterns I used? A combination of 3, which I don't have handy at the moment, but can report back on later!


Miss T brought me a picture of the Mila Kunis 2011 Oscars dress, designed by Ellie Saab. She requested more coverage (less sheerness and less cleavage), no train, and a change of color.


I used Vogue 8358 for the foundation dress, which I made out of stretch satin from Joann's (matching dye lot issue, again).





This dress took a lot of thought and engineering to make a reality! I started with the neckline, and after a few failed attempts (and advice from friends), cut the chiffon on the bias, then pinned it down and stitched it over an underlayer of lace.


It also took some close studying to figure our the right sequence of the other chiffon drapes coming from different directions, but I think I did a decent job.





The skirt ruffles were more time consuming that I expected, also.
1. Cut a strip of lace 5" wide, 58" long.
2. Attach your gathering foot and run the lace through the machine.
3. Attach your normal stitching foot and attach the gathered lace to a 3" wide strip of chiffon. (I tried to do step 2 and 3 at the same time but it looked terrible.)
4. Attach your narrow hem foot (5mm), and finish the long edge of the chiffon.
5. Attach your normal foot again, and stitch a narrow pin tuck along the center length of the chiffon. (The Saab dress showed 2 of those tucks, but I just couldn't bring myself to do it.)
6. Cut a scalloped edge into the length of the lace.
7. Chalk a line on the skirt that is 45 degrees from center front and back for ruffle placement.
8. Stitch the ruffle along the chalkline, and again along the lace/chiffon seam (this helped keep the ruffles from flipping up when she walked and "calmed them down" a little.
9. Repeat 9 more times, until both right and left sides are filled.

To cover the gap at center front and back where the ruffles started and stopped, I used a 1/2 yard of chiffon, and attached it above, tacking it down along the way to keep it in place. That narrow hem foot and I are BFFs now! Everything from the waist up was hand-stitched in place, I went through nearly 2 full spools of thread making the whole dress!


The two dresses are so different from each other, but so beautiful in their own ways. I'm really happy with how they turned out, and the girls were equally thrilled!

How did they do that?!?!

A simple little swath of chiffon is giving me fits of frustration!





Mine looks too clumpy, and after 3 tries, I had to walk away. I'm eating my breakfast, drinking my coffee, and Trying to plan my next move. I suspect that strip curving under the bust line is cut on the bias, and that's why it's able to turn and curve so nicely. What do you think? I pulled out my stitches, smoothed it out, and pulled tighter, with this result:


An improvement, but still... Also, my mannequin is also proving priceless, as I am doing all the hand stitching while it's on her, holding its shape. This is a true couture gown!

My 5mm rolled hem foot is also proving priceless with this particular dress. I'm ripping the chiffon into strips, then finishing the long edges and (at least that part is going well! I know exactly how to make the lace ruffles for the skirt, so if I can just finish the front of the bodice, I'll feel so much better! I'm working from left to right, since the draping goes over and under different pieces, that's why you can only see the left side now!

The Audrey dress is still in muslin, but I did find the perfect pearls for the necklace, and Miss L found the brooch of her choice on Etsy. The construction of that dress will be so much easier!

Prom 2012: The Year of the Knock-Off!

Usually I only take on 1 student prom dresses, but 2 girls asked me last spring (a year in advance), and they are both such sweet girls, so I couldn't say no!

Miss T wanted the Mila Kunis Oscar dress from Feb. 2011, but chose a different color than the lavender shown (bright peacock blue).


We are raising the neckline and making the foundation in stretch satin, seriously reducing the amount of skin showing. I have matching lace and chiffon, so we are really trying to get as close to the Elie Saab gown as possible. Miss T is a tall, thin ballet dancer, with a striking resemblance to Taylor Swift. She also is acing my AP Statistics class, which makes her smart and beautiful! I'm using Vogue 8358 as the foundation pattern, but rounded out the neckline. The muslin was a perfect fit!



Miss L was in my class last year, and her mom is a teacher in the same building. She has a more petite frame, and is such a natural beauty! She wants the infamous Breakfast at Tiffany's dress, but (again) in a different color (champagne pink).


Miss L also wants the skirt portion slightly more "flowy", with added width and in chiffon. I'm using New Look 6799 as my basis, but already hacked up the back, and am eliminating the waistband.


Here's my 1st muslin:





We had our fitting today, and it needs to be taken in under the bust, and I need to make the waistband vanish. But, I'm super-duper pumped about how the bodice back turned out!


We are also fashioning the necklace, which will be attached to the dress (so it sits properly). Quite excited! Prom is May 23, so I'd better get back to work. I'll check in soon!

The Big One

I sew pretty things for big girls, and for little girls! This is my friend's daughter, wearing a little outfit I made at her request.





The "1" is a polka dot appliqué and I embroidered the edge in hot pink. The skirt is a bottom layer of poly satin with 2 layers of tulle. You can't see the polka dot bow at the waist, and those leg Warner's are trimmed with a double ruffle of satin and tulle. The fabrics all came from Joann's, with the onesie and leg warmers supplied by my friend.


I also trimmed the edge of the satin skirt with strip of polka dots to tie it all together! Isn't she a sweetie?!

Yes, I've been MIA, busy with school and prom dresses. I've got 2 to make this year, so I have to get back to work. See you soon!