Saturday, December 19, 2009

Empire (State of Mind) Jacket

Burda Jacket, August 2009, #118 (Click above pic to enlarge.)
Fabric: 2 yds of blue/grey wool and 2 yds of blue lining, both from Paron's in NYC.
Notions: 5 large pewter snaps, from Pacific Trims in NYC.
Here's my review at PR.
This was my first project using one of the New York fabrics I bought in August during the Sit and Sew class. I really took my time making sure I did things right (rather than just getting to the finish line), so it took a lot longer than expected, but came out very nicely.

I made 2 muslins to un-petite the sizing, ending up adding an inch to the length (above the waist), scooping out the armscye a bit, and letting out the side seams a pinch. I am very, very happy with the resulting fit (doesn't the back look amazing?).
The pattern went together nicely, I only had to refer to the directions for the shoulder placket placement and the sleeve vent construction. I pretty much put it together my own way, and used Claire Schaeffer's book to confirm my interfacing suspicions. I don't like how Burda shows a "ring" of interfacing around the armscye, and ended up interfacing the whole top-half of the back pieces as Schaeffer recommends. I suspect I should've used a higher quality fusible interfacing, as this one was slightly too heavy for the weight of the wool. The other issue with this wool is the thickness of the seams were allowances were doubled up. I used a lot of steam and pressure (aka hammering/clapping) to flatten out the hem and collar bumps. Below, you can see how the plackets curve over the collar and attach at the lining seam.
And above, you can see the inside of the sleeve vents where the sleeeve facings and lining meet.

My biggest headache was the should placket parts. I placed them incorrectly 2 or 3 times, having to rip and restitch them. Then they wouldn't lay nice and flat (like the magazine photo), so I really steamed and slapped them around a bit. A few extra stitched to tack them down in certain places, and I'm finally happy with those lil' buggers.

Overall, I'm pleased with the appearance of this unique jacket. The snaps are little big for my taste, but I love the color of them with the fabric, and couldn't bring myself to cover them. Susan Khalje showed me how to correctly stitch them down in class, so I used her method. I adore this shade of blue, and plan on wearing this with grey dress pants or jeans, and I also have a piece of grey doubleknit from Gorgeous Fabrics that wants to be a sheath dress to match.
I won't be updating again (probably) until after Christmas, so I hope you all have a wonderful holiday. This year, Little Miss Princess got to help me set up my Swarovski Snowflake collection. I started in 1995, my first Christmas with DH, and have every one made since. They are so beautiful, and thankfully I have this super safe curio to showcase them in (where little hands can't reach, and balls can't hit and tails don't wag...). The back of the cabinet is mirrored, so it may look like more than 15 ornaments! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!

35 comments:

KID, MD said...

It looks amazing!!! The fit is beautiful.

Faye Lewis said...

Your jacket looks absolutely RTW. It is beautiful. Love those snaps too. Your crystal ornaments are beautiful, do you leave them out all year or only put them out for Christmas?

Marsha said...

Nicely done...great fit!

Lindsay T said...

Nice work, Kristine! This jacket turned out great; all your effort was worth it. I love everything about it.

Merry Christmas to you and your family!

Lisette M said...

The jacket turned out beautiful, I love the color and the simple and elegant lines.

meredithp said...

Wonderful jacket! Wonderful job! Fit and execution are perfect!

becki-c said...

Looks amazing, the back drop of snow is almost as perfect as the fit. Thanks for posting the inside picture of the collar for those of us who are curious.

gwensews said...

Fantastic jacket! The epulets are different from the usual, going over the collar to the inside of the jacket. Nice sewing!

JoanneM said...

STUNNING. The fabric,fit and color are perfect. What an outstanding job Kristine!

Olivia said...

Just love your jacket!! Sadly, my subcription to Burda expired before this edition....love the snaps. This is very fashion forward and you have done a beautiful job on it. Also, love the snowflakes! Merry Xmas!

a little sewing on the side said...

Your coat looks just amazing. Beautiful fit and craftsmanship. Enjoy wearing it!

Kathi said...

The jacket looks great and really shows all of the hard work you put into it. You should be incredibly proud!

Dana said...

Great job on the jacket - very cool! Merry Christmas!

Amy said...

Fantastic jacket! It looks great on you. I'm jealous of all that pretty snow you have. All we have here is rain, rain and more rain. *sigh*

Anonymous said...

Love the jacket. Everything about it -- especially the fit. What's the secret with those fabulous snaps?
Cissie

Uta said...

Classy and casual at the same time. I love it! The ornaments are gorgeous... I also love getting out all my decorations for Christmas.

equatorcollection said...

A beauty of a jacket inside and out! It looks both wearable and classy at the same time. Great work!

Eugenia said...

Wonderful jacket, I love this style, and you have made it perfectly. I love it.

angie.a said...

OMG I LOVE this jacket! It looks beautiful!!

And I wish you a Very Merry Christmas!!! Get lots of family time and maybe some sewing time too while you're off :)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

All of the work you put into it was well worth it! You have made a stunning jacket and I love the snaps! Great job!!!

Arlene said...

Great job on the jacket! Looks better on you than the model!

Sharon said...

Fabulous! It turned out beautifully and looks wonderful on you.

Amanda S. said...

How have I missed your last two posts?! LOVE love the jacket. I have the other version of this jacket paired with a gray wool, and will definitely be using some of your un-petiting methods for it. Great silk dress too, BTW. You've been making some great stuff lately. Keep it up!

julia said...

YOur jacket is unbelievably amazing! The snowflake collection is too

Gail said...

Fabulous, fabulous. You picked up amazing tailoring skills on your NY course. I'm making this coat next winter so may come to you for pointers.

Summerset said...

Stunning - all the hard work and patience paid off! You look fabulous wearing it.

paco peralta said...

nice jacket Kristine. Take this opportunity to wish you a merry Christmas and a new year filled with health and prosperity.

Greetings, Paco

Bunny said...

This stunning jacket looks wonderful on you! Hope you and your family have a wonderful blessed holiday.

Vicki said...

Wow, you have done a beautiful job on that jacket!! Merry Christmas :)

amber said...

What a great jacket! I especially like the picture of you out in the snow. It looks all wintery and warm and stuff. :)

Have a very Merry Christmas!

Trudy Callan said...

What an amazing jacket!

Merry Christmas!

AnaJan said...

This is a bit late comment, but I guess it's better late than never! Your jacket turned out gorgeous! The fit is great, and I really like the color of the fabric.
Ana

kanishk said...

looks amazing!!! The fit is beautiful.

Work from home India

Nishant said...

Your crystal ornaments are beautiful,

Work from home India

Patty said...

This jacket is beautiful and your attention to detail really paid off!
It's as lovely from the inside too.
Nice work!
(finally catching up with my favorite bloggers!)