Monday, February 20, 2012

Jacket: Under Construction




Muslin fitting proved very useful, as I definitely needed more room in the waist. I let out the back darts completely, and about half the depth in the front waist darts. After those adjustments, the fit was great, but there was still something nagging at me. Something about the cut of the lower front edges... So, I did some research.








The February issue of "People, Style Watch" had a few pages about black blazers (how timely!) and I was so happy to see all these single breasted jackets... with the bottom of the CF having a rounded edge! See my vintage pattern illustration below?


It may seem like a ridiculously small detail, but I think it makes all the difference in the world. Crazy? I purchased my interfacing from Pam at Fashion Sewing Supply, and bought the "Supreme Lightweight Fusible" under her recommendation. The pattern instructions obviously don't incorporate the use of fusible interfacing, so I'll work around them. The facings all fused beautifully, so I am thrilled! With the outside shell done, my next step is to construct the lining (another change to the pattern instructions). I purchased black China Silk for this, with the hope that natural fibers will breathe and allow me to wear this jacket into early spring. My plan (which sounds wonderful inside my head with birds singing, the sun shining, and the jukebox playing "Runaround Sue") is to construct the lining to just below the waistline, as the facings reach up to that line. I will put the shell and lining wrong sides together, and baste the layers together at the neckline and sleeve hems, treating it then as a single unit. Then I can round out the front center hemline and go from there. I think...



4 comments:

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Good plan...I'm sure that it will see you through to a fantastic finished jacket!

Gail said...

Looks great so far. I am so in love with your recent lace dress.

Nothy Lane said...

Beautiful! I love it. And it is so smart to choose fabrics that will take you into spring.

Bunny said...

I think your curved front is a big deal and agree that your jacket will look more contemporary if you make that change. I immediately noticed the straight across hemline. I think your instincts are great.