Saturday, February 11, 2012

New Project: Vintage Cashmere Jacket

Thanks to all of you that posted comments about my lovely lace dress! I think that it will get much use, and I'm quite pleased with it's timeless, classic elegance! Here's a pic of the back, as requested, along with a pic of the front (unbelted):

For my next trick... I purchased a couple yards of black cashmere on sale at Haberman's that same day. I don't possess a black jacket, and know that it would be a staple in my wardrobe. I've been itching to make up one of the vintage patterns I acquired this fall (from my co-worker), so I dug in the box and came up with this wonderful McCall's 9377 from 1953.

I love the narrow, unnotched collar, and really like the casual look of the 3/4 dolman sleeve (if that's the correct description). I'll be using the same fabric for the collar and cuffs, so it won't have as contrasting an appearance as the envelope. I'm also eliminating those "flaps" stuck in the front waist darts... why would anyone want flaps there?

The previous owner used all the dress pieces, leaving her pattern alterations in place with added tissue and straight pins. It felt like playing with history, handling those pieces! 60 years later, I gently left the pins and tissue in place, folding them they way the way I found them. Those pieces were cut with pinking shears, but all the jacket pieces were present and untouched.

Here is a pic of the jacket instructions, I just love the typewritter font, and direct arrows to each illustration step! Looking at these, I was surprised to find NO LINING! I really want this jacket to hold up to frequent wear, so I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate one (without having to draft it). There are facing pieces for the front center, and for the front and back hem, that reach all the way up to the waistline.

I'll need to buy (or make) some black binding for all those edges. I could just serge those edges, but for some odd reason, I've become pickier in my finishing on these more expensive pieces I've made lately!

You may also notice the bound buttonholes, and thankfully there are just 3! My shopping list includes interfacing, buttons, binding, and lining... I'm headed downstairs to stitch up a muslin first, and check the fit. It's a size 14, bust 32, so I may need to let it out a smidge, and I want to make sure the seam lines/darts through the waist and hips are too tight. Wish me luck! (I just noticed something ironic... the dress featured on the envelope with the jacket has a scallop neckline, just like my lace dress! And this jacket will work very well with that dress! Ok, carry on...)


Bunny said...

This is going to be gorgeous. How about underlining it and then stitch all those facings to the underlining?

Once again, the lace dress is wonderful. It so proves that high end fabrics and simple designs are really the way to go, IMO. You will get much use out of this dress.

Dharma said...

Looking forward to seeing the jacket. It looks very elegant.

Today I got a Talbot's catalog. Inside was lace skirts, tank tops and dresses! Your dress it right on target!!

The jacket and dress will be timeless.

Linda said...

Great looking vintage jacket pattern.

Anonymous said...

oooh- this is going to be pretty! I think i'd want to line it too.

Gail said...

I've noticed that your sewing has become much more ambitious in recent months. Love the dress and the coat design is amazing.