Thursday, February 12, 2009

Prom Muslin Finished

The fitting was supposed to be today, but I'm home with the Little Man and his green nose. He's in no shape for daycare, so here I am at home today! Mixed blessings... I hate to see him sick, but it is nice to have a day at home to catch up on laundry, dishes, and sewing.

The prom muslin is finished, and I already have a few concerns. The reviews of this patterns were all positive, so I wonder if I'm being nit-picky.
1. I have to figure out how to re-sequence the zipper insertion. I really don't like the zipper being applied over the bodice lining, rather than inside it. This is formal wear, so I'm really frustrated that the pattern company "dumbs it down" rather than having enough confidence in home-sewers to do it the right way, with a clean finish inside. This kind of deep thought requires another cup of coffee...

2. The girl wearing this is an 11th grader, and has already requested more coverage in the cleavage area (Thank God! Otherwise, I wouldn't be working on this project right now!) My current plan is to have the center front edges of the bodice meet in the middle, so I can stitch that area closed for a good 2-3 inches up from the skirt. There is slight gaping at the curved edges leading up to the shoulders. How do I prevent that? I'm thinking part of the problem will be solved when I adjust the straps in the back... but not completely solved. Ideas?
3. I made a full bust adjustment for a C cup by adding a 1/2" width and length from the apex. I did a slash and spread, thinking this will help with 2 things: the C cup and the need to close the center front up (see #2). Now that the muslin is done, I 'm not happy with how bumpy the gathers under the bust are. Maybe I should've left the pattern alone? Maybe it's the effect of 2 layers of fabric being gathered (top + lining)? Maybe I should make the gathered area wider, spreading the gathers out farther towards center front and sides?
4. This dress has a fairly low back, and I was planning on putting bra cups inside the bodice between the lining and the outside. My issues here are mainly because I've never inserted bra cups before and need to do some research!

So, I will do the fitting tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe once it's actually on a human being, some of my concerns will cease to exist. Keep your fingers crossed...


Summerset said...

Here are a few comments, since I made this one for a HS student.
Regarding the zipper insertion - I really hate that about some big 4 patterns - putting a zipper in over a lining?!? UGH. It can be done neatly.

I modified that front piece by cutting it on a fold and at the same time, upping that neckline. It was still a pretty curvy sweetheart neckline, but not cleavage showing. This will also help to get a solid bodice all the way around at the waist seam so that you can insert zipper and then insert lining the normal way.

Second, to deal with the bulk under the bust due to going to a c-cup, put gathers in the fashion fabric, but darts in the lining. The darts will lie flatter, yet the gathers will be pretty on the outside.

You should underline at least the front if you want to do bra cups. You then can catch-stitch the cups to the underlining *only* to keep them in place. It will require a fitting to pin them into the right place. Use a matching cotton or bastiste to underline.

Lindsay T said...

Thank goodness for Summerset and her answers, right?! Your work so far is looking good.

Kristine said...

Right on the money, Lindsay T!!! You said what I've been thinking all morning! So, Thank You Summerset!

Bunny said...

Great advice!

So much of our lives is dumbed down today. It is so infuriating when it hits the sewing industry as well. Just look at Threads magazine.