Pleated Blouse

April 2009 BWOF, #122

I bought this fabric last year from the co-op, but didn't have the perfect pattern for it. I knew that this fabric required simple lines, so #122 from the April issue was perfect! When I came out wearing it, Little Miss Princess declared, "Oooooh, Mom... I love it!" I have to admit, I love it, too!!!

I consulted "More Fabric Savvy" by Sandra Betzina to see what "special needs" pre-pleated fabrics have. If you love the look, you can find more pleated fabrics at Gorgeous Fabrics, here and here. The pleats run across the grain (not with it), and I used 2 yards with the same layout. Just a few words of warning about working with it...

1. The Betzina book recommended a Universal 70/10 needle, but I got nothing but skipped stitches until I tried a stretch needle. The poly fibers need a needle to move around them, not through them, so a ballpoint might also work, but I didn't try one.

2. NO PRESSING!!! The pleats will disappear and never reappear, and you don't really need to press since the pleats make the seams a little plump anyhow.

3. 1/2" wide tape is your best friend with this fabric. After I cut my pattern pieces, I carefully ran the tape along every seam edge, lightly holding the fabric in place, but not making the fabric lay flat. The purpose of the tape it to keep the seam edges the same length as the pattern pieces and also preserve your pleats. I did sew through some of the tape with my regular machine, but immediately removed it after sewing the seam, then serged the tape-free edges.

I ignored the BWOF instructions again, just checked for sequence of attaching pieces and how wide to make the casing seam allowance.

My way went like this...

1. Sewed front top and back top at shoulder seams.

2. Used black (purchased) bias tape to turn front and neck edges.

3. Sewed side seams of top.

4. Basted center front seam together to meet with a 1" s.a.

5. Sewed buttonholes in front bottom, using embroidery stabilizer on the back.

6. Sewed side seams of front and back bottoms.

7. Attached top unit and bottom unit with a 1" s.a., then stitched down for ribbon casing.

8. Inserted tie into casing.

*My fabric doesn't fray AT ALL, and I didn't want to flatten the pleats, and I really like the loose look... so I didn't hem the bottom or the sleeves. The "rule follower" in me is pulling her hair out, but my gut is saying, "Leave it alone, it looks *perfect*!"

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My bamboo interlock arrived today for my PR contest entry. I'll be using Vogue 8379, and have to play with the trim stuff I bought to make a final decision on what I'm going to do with it. Entry deadline is August 15, so I have some time to play with it!