Thursday, July 11, 2013

The Point of Sewing

Gail commented in my last post, "I don't see the point of making an exact copy of a designer garment. Isn't the point of sewing to create garments that are original and perfect for us."   Naturally, this got me thinking, "What is the point of sewing?" and I know that each one of us would answer this question differently.  For me, the answer to that question has repeatedly changed throughout my life, depending on the project at hand, and as I reflected on my own reasons for sewing, my journey over the last 25 years floated through my mind...

When I was in middle school (mid-80s), I remember dragging my mother to every store in the mall looking for a skirt, a very specific skirt. Denim yoke, 3 tiers of gathered ruffles (pink, please) and ending above the knee. 25 years later, I can still see the image of that skirt in my mind's eye clearly! Well, my dear mother (God Bless her) was exhausted at the end of our fruitless search, and took me to Joann fabrics, where my sewing education began. She showed me the pattern catalogs and how to read the envelopes, and as they say, "The rest is history".  My very first sewing project's point: To make the dream reality. To have that skirt I saw in my mind's eye really happen. While I don't have a picture of that first skirt, I have a whole album of all the garments that came after it!
That Kenmore was my first, and still works great! I sewed in my bedroom...

As I sewed more, I found that I loved making formal dresses. In high school, the "red carpet event" was Homecoming/Prom. No girl ever wants to show up wearing the same dress as someone else, and sewing my own meant that I could insure my individuality. By my Senior year, my friends knew what I was up to, so I made 2 other girls' dresses as well. What was the point of that sewing? To create a unique garment, a "one of a kind".
My self-made prom dress (left). 1992!
About this time, my sister brought me one of the biggest jobs I've ever had: A Wedding. Not just a wedding dress, but all the bridesmaids, too! My sister's friend was on a very tight budget, so I was able to create her wedding dress for a mere $200. I think I only charged the bridesmaids $100 per dress. I was young, and so humbled to be creating such an important garment and had absolutely no idea what the average price of a wedding dress was in 1990! All the fabrics and materials came from Joann's, it was the only fabric store I had access to, and the "internet" wasn't in action just yet.  The point of that memorable sewing project: To stay under budget.
The bridesmaids sleeves were the same lace as the bride's!

My plans to study fashion design in college did not come to fruition. New York and L.A. seemed like a death sentence to my parents, and they refused to send their youngest off to the wolves. So, I changed plans, and teaching math became my career choice. Sewing took a back seat for a very long time, as the demands of college classes and lesson plans took over. When I was planning my wedding, the thought of making my own wedding dress was something I very much wanted (I had kept a Vogue wedding dress pattern for years and years, with that plan in mind!), I was simply too busy with my first year teaching. The only sewing I found myself doing was quilting, as it allowed me to satisfy my need to "create" in small time allowances, and I could easily walk away and pick up where I left off. These quilts became gifts for my mother, my mother-in-law, and my niece. The point of sewing these quilts: To create a memorable gift.
My first quilt, for my mom. Resides on my couch now. <3>
When I found out that I was pregnant with a little girl... Oh! My head was filled with floral cottons and ruffles, lace edging, and little matching panties! I didn't have much experience with sewing such small garments, along with the challenge of comfort and closures (buttoning the back of a wiggling baby is NOT easy). It was my first Mother's Day when DH's gift to me was my Husqavarna Viking Iris.  I was amazed by all it could do (the embroidery attachment led to a whole other sewing education) and made my little girl some really cute dresses.  I was shocked at how expensive some kids' clothes were, and could hear my mother's voice in my head, "There's less than a yard of fabric there!".  Making little dresses for my baby made me happy, like I was creating something special just for her, from her Mumma. As she's grown (10 last week!), I've saved many of those little dresses, just not able to toss aside the love that went into making them. The point of sewing them: To create sweet "heirloom" outfits for my little girl, truly made from the heart.
Made from the train of my wedding gown. 2011

Sewing cute stuff for my little girl made me want to sew cute big stuff for myself.  The lesson planning had lightened up, and I found myself sewing when the little one was napping. The internet brought a whole new level to my sewing world at this point, and my discovery of "Threads" and "PatternReview" meant that I had other people that I could talk to and learn from. My mother had taught me the basics, but I was left to my own devices with more technical challenges like zippers and pockets.  I started following blogs, and made friends around the world, like Bunny and Angie and Michelle and  Dawn.  This was the first time in my life that I felt like I was part of a community. The quality of my sewing increased exponentially because of these ladies and so many others out there blogging, sharing, teaching, explaining and laughing. My sewing had new purpose: To achieve great fit and create garments that were flattering on my frame.

All of this "learning" boosted my sewing confidence, and I found myself trying new challenges. I found myself entering contests and participating in sew-alongs, sewing sometimes just to prove that I could meet the goal.

These days when I flip through a magazine and see a beautiful garment that makes me think, "Ooh! I want that!", I look at the price tag and start thinking about fabric cost, style lines, pattern adjustments, closures... but, if it's affordable and I love it, I'll buy it. Last month I was in debate about patterns and fabrics for a dress to wear to a wedding. So, I went and tried some on, only to find the perfect dress on the rack, so I brought it home! No knock-off there, I couldn't improve on the style, the fabric, the fit, or the price.
That "Ralph Lauren" guy knows his stuff! No Knock-off here!

Beyond all of these reasons, the real bottom line for me is that sewing brings me joy.  It makes me happy to create something pretty, something that makes my child smile, something that brings comfort, something that makes me feel like a million dollars when I wear it. It gives me a sense of accomplishment, whether it's recreating a designer look or making my daughter a new dress for her doll. My math loving brain enjoys the engineering of a garment, the problem solving of construction, and the sensory stimulation of a fabric's color, drape, weight, and feel. The thought of tackling the challenges that I still want to learn (sketching, draping, and pattern drafting) makes me excited for my sewing future and my continued "sewing evolution".  I just submitted my first entry for the "Passion for Fashion" contest at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan in September. It's a contest I've always wanted to enter, but wasn't sure I was ready for. Maybe I'm still not ready, (considering the past competitors are Rhonda Buss, Angela Wolff, and Gretchen Hirsch), but I feel ready to TRY, I feel ready to put myself out there and give it a shot. I'll hear back soon, so I'll keep you posted.

Whether the "goal" image is a designer look from a glossy magazine or the front of a Vogue pattern envelope or an original from my own mind's eye, if I can match it (or improve on it) in a way that is appealing in appearance and fit... perhaps the question isn't "why sew?" but, "WHY NOT SEW?"

Gail, thank you for your question. I really enjoyed writing this post and reflecting on the past. I count you among my "worldwide sewing friends" and appreciate your kindness and support! I look forward to continuing this journey together!

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Bebe Spring 2013 Knock Off

It only took me 3 1/2 months, but it's finished!  Back in March I saw this lovely "bebe" dress iin InStyle magazine and set out to make my own version. Here's that Previous Blog Post.  Fast forward through all the things that got in the way: Prom alterations, end of the school year, and life in general... and here we are to the finish line!

Inspiration Garment: Bebe Spring 2013 "Luxury Vines Printed Peplum Dress" No longer available, I have no idea what the original price was, but it is a cotton dress and just looked so fresh and springy.
When I saw it described as having a peplum, looked really closely... Yeah, not very obvious, even when you see the one from the bebe shopping website:
So, I thought the skirt was asymmetrical, with a single hip curve, but I was wrong. No biggie. Still love my dress. I do like the way the bebe version has centered that "white space" between the flowers at the center front, though...
Pattern Description: A combination of Vogue 8727 (top, view D) and Butterick 5566 (bottom,view DE)
Pattern Sizing: I made a mix of 12 and 14 based on the finished garment measurements. True to size for the most part, I could take it in a little in the waist/hips, but it feels good!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Well, it definitely ended up looking like the "inspiration garment"!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I didn't follow them much since I lined the whole dress and it changed up the order of assembly a little. Basically, I constructed the outer garment top, then the skirt portion, keeping them separate

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The style lines were exactly what I needed to recreate the dress.

Fabric Used: Cotton Sateen from Haberman Fabrics. Since sold out, but it was the closest colorway/floral to the bebe dress that I could find. I also fully lined with white poly "posh" lining. I think the cotton was about $10/yd, so with the invisible zipper, bias tape and lining... I'd estimate it cost me about $30.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Just a few changes...
1. Fully lined the garment.
2. Added Double Fold Bias Tape to the neck and armholes.
3. The pictures I was studying made the dress appear to have an asymmetrical hip curve on the skirt. (I later realized that the "peplum" was created by the two slightly pronounced hip curves, but my dress was already midway through construction.) I traced the Butterick skirt pattern using a regular darted view for the front right, and the hip curve version for the front left, and placed a "half" front underneath the hip curve side. Clear as mud, right?!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I'd make it again! In fact, I overbought on fabric, and have enough for another version! It was quite simple and I'm very happy with the outcome.
Conclusion: It took me a lot longer to complete than I planned (I've been quite busy since late March with Prom alterations, finishing the school year, and other sewing and embroidery jobs), but I love it.

I love making RTW knock-offs. I have my next one ready to go, in fact. It's a Valentino dress, and I'm really excited to get moving on that project! This time I won't let it sit for 3 months, though!

Friday, June 28, 2013

Follow Me on Bloglovin

Seems like everyone is doing it these day! I'd hate to lost contact with you wonderful folks, so if you're switching over to Bloglovin, you can find me there now, too!

Here's the link to my blog and I look forward to staying connected with you! When life gets you down, you know what to do? Just Keep Sewing...


Kristine

Friday, June 21, 2013

My Mullet Dress

 
Vogue 8870

This print reminds me of flames. Blue, Red, Orange, Yellow... I think it radiates warmth, and makes me happy.  I found it at Joann's last summer, it's a rayon blend, 60" wide. I bought 2 yards, and it was just enough to make this lovely summer sundress.
Pattern Description:  Pullover dress has loose-fitting, blouson bodice variations, elasticized (seamed) waist, side pockets and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on back hemline. A: mock wrap, front pleated bodice, and two-piece sleeves. Note: no provisions provided for above waist adjustment. B: elasticized upper back.

Pattern Sizing: XS to XXL. I made the Medium (12-14), but probably could've done the Small. My measurements are 36-29-41, and I used a lot less elastic across the back than the pattern called for.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think so. Just a little shorter than the illustration for dress B.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very! No lining, just a front neckline facing. 2 pieces of elastic, no zippers or other closures. I skipped the pockets, so I had 5 pattern pieces, and knocked it out in a day.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Loose and easy, the way summertime is supposed to be! Could easily be shortened into a tank top. I like the detail of the double spaghetti strap, it's sweet.
 Fabric Used: Rayon blend from Joann's that I bought last year. 2 yards, 60" wide was exactly enough to do the top of version B and the bottom of version A.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Skipped the pockets, and made the waist casing just a 1/2", not the 7/8" the pattern called for. Used 1/4" elastic in the waist, just because that's all I had laying around!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes! The "Mullet Dress" is trending right now, so I'm not sure how long it will be until I just trim the hem evenly all around?! Love the cool and loose feel of a sundress this time of year. Like wearing a nightgown all day... :)

Conclusion: I needed a nice and quick sew for myself, and this fit the bill perfectly! I think I'll wear this a lot this summer!
12 weeks of Crossfit... Look at those guns! LOL...

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

It's a Major Award!

Not really. But, it is a PRIZE and I'm excited to share it with you. My facebook friends won't get it. "There goes Kristine talking about sewing again. Blah blah blah..."
You probably don't remember, but... last summer (oh my, no! It was July 2011!?) I had an epiphany while sorting buttons. Press n' Seal was a key player.  I posted about it here.  I submitted my "tip" to Threads Magazine, and guess what?! It won the "Tip of the Month"!!!  I won 3 (yes, count 'em, THREE) sewing DVDs, and a beautiful hard-cover (heavy!) book!
Can I tell you that I've never watched an instructional sewing DVD before? Apparently, this "old dog" prefers the old trick of "googling" and "youtube", along with the even older trick of "go to the nearest reference book"! Yes, it's ok to laugh, go ahead.  I'm really geared up about the Claire Shaeffer video, as I'm planning on putting together my fall wardrobe this summer, and her jacket construction is amazing! The threads videos I'm sure will be fascinating, as well. Any of you own them?
The book is a big heavy wonderful Sewing Guide, chock full of everything you might ever need to know.  The illustrations and photography is spot on and the explanations look fantastic. I'm really excited to sit down with my morning coffee and flip through it!

 So, when you're flipping through the upcoming issue (#168) and get to the "Press n Seal Button Storage" tip, that's all me. Yup. Does this mean I can tell people that I've been "published"? It's a major award!!! (Name that movie?) And if you're wondering why on earth it took nearly 2 years to make it to print, it's because they actually have to research all the tips before publishing to make sure that they haven't been printed elsewhere. I figured that they just decided it wasn't that good of a tip! Apparently good things come to those who wait?

Swing by later this week, I've got 2 dresses in the making and they'll be ready for sharing very soon!

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Strappiness Is...

Simplicity 1607

Pattern Description: Misses' dress with bodice variations. Fitted bodice with criss-cross or scoop neck, side zipper & dropped waist gathered skirt.
Pattern Sizing: 6-22. I made a mix of 8/10 based on the finished garment measurements and they were very accurate. I made view A.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! It's really unique and very cute!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I think so. The instructions are clearly illustrated and recommend that you label the shoulder strap parts throughout construction. I pinned little sticky note labels on mine, and worked slowly, reading thoroughly. Once you get through the straps, the rest of the dress construction is a piece of cake!
Back View
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the unique appearance of the bodice, and the dropped waist gathers of the skirt. I thought it was "Sugar" on the bottom, and "Spice" on the top!

Fabric Used: 2.5 yards of rayon challis from Joann's that was purchased about 3 years ago. The weight and drape was ideal for this style, and the print works well with the style, too. I love the pinks/purples of the leopard/floral print.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None. I actually stuck to the rules, for once!
*Caution: If you are long or short in the torso, you may want to muslin the bodice, as the straps won't be easy to adjust.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I would! This was a gift for a friend, so I'd love to make myself one now! Yes, I'd recommend it others with advice to label the strap parts, work slowly, read and re-read, and don't lose your patience!

Conclusion: It turned out exactly how I'd hoped, and my friend is thrilled!

Monday, May 27, 2013

Picking a pattern... IMPOSSIBLE.

My nephew's wedding is coming soon (end of June), and I still haven't decided on a dress for myself. I bought some Gorgeous Fabric months ago with a particular plan in mind... but, of course, you know how plans change.

I have 2 yards of crimson dupioni (45" wide) and 2 yards of stunning black lace eyelet (60" wide)
Lightweight Silk Duppioni - Iridescent Crimson

Sold out, long ago folks, sorry. I bought it back in December, knowing that it was unique and awesome and I had to have it. Ann shared this photo of an Oscar De la Renta dress using the same exact fabric.
I'm not a fan of the bow, but like the simple lines of this dress.  Simplicity 1656, which has 3 great views, but a shortened version of view A is quite similar to this. I think I'd use the lace all over though, not just on the bottom.
Strapless can be a pain in the butt though, and I'd get more wear out of a dress with straps... 
Vogue 8556 (shortened) has a lot of potential, and I love the back view.
I'm not a huge fan of the front neckline, as gaping tends to happen with this style.

Vogue 8814 also has my attention, as the "fit & flare" is fun, with a great neckline and open back. I like view B, but shorter.

My concern with this one is my limited amount of lace. I can buy more dupioni, but only have 2 yards of 60" wide lace. Is that enough? Maybe I should only use it on the skirt? And, what's with the front center seam all down the front?  I DON'T KNOW.

I'm actually considering going shopping at the mall, I'm am so undecided and frustrated. I've been working hard at Crossfit for the last 8 weeks, and am quite proud of my newly shaped shoulders and figure. New measurement, too... 36-29-41.

Advice? Opinions? Feedback?  Thanks, ladies!